Yes, you can make a wedding cake
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By Natasha Pickowicz, The New York Times
Ever scroll through a friend’s wedding registry and feel uninspired by the cavalcade of appliances and trinkets? Consider going rogue and asking the couple if you can give them something major: a wedding cake.
With their vertiginous tiers, sculpted sugar roses and fondant as smooth as clay, professional wedding cakes are engineered to look good for long stretches of time — some even come with a sneaky Styrofoam layer — but they can fall short in flavor. A more personal homemade cake subverts expectations, and can feel less formal in the best possible way: big, exuberant and celebratory.
Toasted Sesame and Citrus Wedding Cake: Baking a tiered wedding cake may seem ambitious, but you can break it down into smaller, more manageable tasks over a few days. In this recipe, everything — the tender chiffon cake layers, the sturdy buttercream, the flavorful citrus compote, the sesame crunch — can be refrigerated for days or even frozen for weeks, to no ill effect.
On the big day, the cakes are frosted and transported unstacked to reduce any anxiety-inducing bumpy car rides, then assembled and decorated on site. Elegant, edible décor is added in the final moments.
Worried about teetering cakes? Lots of thin, stacked layers are more structurally sound than a few thick layers glued together with icing. So, here, citrus syrup-soaked cakes and creamy filling are tucked into plastic wrap-lined pans, ensuring straight sides and a flat base.
Nervous about drooping frosting the day of the wedding? These cakes freeze overnight and gently come to temperature on the big day, which helps keep the finish cool and in place. And, because there’s no butter in the batter — the cakes are leavened with billowing egg whites — the layers don’t get crumbly and dry as they thaw under the sturdy Swiss meringue buttercream.
While more labor intensive than its American cousin (butter and powdered sugar whipped together), a Swiss meringue buttercream is ideal for enrobing tiered cakes because of its heft and stability.
To make it, egg whites and sugar are whisked in a double boiler until emulsified, thick and hot; the mixture briefly cools before receiving a generous amount of butter. It’s then whip-whip-whipped until a silky buttercream emerges. Like the cakes, the buttercream (and the citrus compote) can be frozen and thawed at your convenience. Thaw them in the refrigerator the night before you’ll use them, then set them out at room temperature for an additional hour to let them become spreadable. (It doesn’t hurt to re-whip, either, for an optimally buoyant, glossy texture.) The crunch can be pulled directly from the freezer and scattered onto the cake layers.
Chocolate Whiskey Cake With Coffee Caramel: If you’re not up for that big of a project, you can still offer to make something smaller — but still special — for the wedding.
Inspired by the Victorian-era tradition of groom’s cakes, this tender cocoa and olive oil cake is baked and served right out of its pan. Still popular in the American South, groom’s cakes — typically with a more robust flavor profile, like chocolate and aged spirits — are a cheeky addition to more classical wedding dessert spreads, a chance to get weirder, boozier and more playful.
Instead of thin, alternating layers of cake, buttercream and jam, this sheet cake is soaked with a whiskey- and coffee-spiked milk, then topped with a glossy boiled caramel glaze and a final dusting of cocoa powder.
Like any homemade gift, a DIY wedding cake is emotionally rich, allowing the effort, the care and the creativity of its maker to come through. Imperfections are inevitable, but they’re also kind of the point.
Sure, ordering a toaster oven is faster — but memories of a homemade wedding cake will outlast any appliance.
Toasted Sesame and Citrus Wedding Cake
Everyone loves receiving a homemade gift, but how about a showstopping, two-tiered, citrus-festooned, sesame-laced wedding cake? With a little planning (and an organized freezer), it’s so much easier than you think. Thin, even layers of vanilla sponge cake, soaked with a vivid citrus syrup, are draped like lasagna sheets into pans, along with swaths of nutty sesame buttercream, charred citrus compote and a granola-adjacent sesame crunch. The cake rests while you do, then is removed from the pans, coated in buttercream, packed up and assembled the day of the wedding. There’s no finer — or more delicious — way to allow the effort, care and creativity of its maker to come through. And don’t forget to save and freeze the excess cake scraps for ice cream sandwiches, trifles or snacking.
By Natasha Pickowicz
Yield: About 60 servings
Total time: 18 hours
Ingredients
For the Vanilla Chiffon Cake:
- 12 large cold eggs
- 1 cup/240 grams neutral oil, like grapeseed
- 2 tablespoons vanilla extract
- 4 cups/800 grams granulated sugar
- 3 1/2 cups/480 grams all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons baking powder
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
For the Sesame Crunch:
- Nonstick cooking spray
- 4 large egg whites
- 1/2 packed cup/120 grams light brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 3/4 cups/226 grams toasted white sesame seeds
- For the Charred Citrus Compote:
- 2 large navel oranges
- 3 lemons or Meyer lemons
- 1 1/2 cups/300 grams granulated sugar
- 1/2 teaspoon citric acid, plus more to taste (optional; see Tip)
For the Charred Citrus Soak:
1/2 cup/120 grams fresh lemon juice
1/3 cup/70 grams granulated sugar
For the Toasted Sesame Buttercream:
12 large egg whites
3 cups/600 grams granulated sugar
1 cup/150 grams powdered sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more if needed
2 pounds/912 grams unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons, at room temperature
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 cup/240 grams tahini
To Decorate:
- Assortment of fresh citrus, such as small tangerines, lemons and kumquats, washed and scrubbed
- Fresh food-safe greenery, such as bay leaves or olive branches
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line the bottoms of 3 half-sheet pans (13-by-18-by-1-inch) with sheets of parchment.
2. Carefully crack eggs into a bowl without breaking the yolks. Pluck out yolks one at a time with clean fingertips, transferring to a large bowl. Transfer the egg whites to the bowl of a stand mixer; set aside. To yolks, add 1 cup/240 grams water, the oil, vanilla and 3 cups/600 grams granulated sugar; whisk until smooth.
3. In a very large bowl, whisk flour, baking powder and salt. Pour yolk mixture into dry ingredients and gently stir to combine. (Small lumps are OK.)
4. Using the whisk attachment, beat egg whites in the stand mixer on medium-high speed until a soft peak forms, about 2 minutes. With the mixer running, stream in remaining 1 cup/200 grams granulated sugar and continue whisking until a glossy, floppy meringue forms, another 3 to 4 minutes.
5. Scrape one-third of the meringue into yolk mixture and gently fold with a spatula until mixture is loosened. Add remaining meringue and fold until batter feels billowy and some white streaks remain. Divide batter evenly among prepared pans. Smooth the surfaces evenly with an offset spatula and transfer to the oven, working in batches if needed.
6. Bake until centers of cakes spring back to the touch and edges are lightly golden, about 18 minutes. If oven heat is uneven, switch the positions of the pans halfway through. Let cakes cool completely in pans until ready to use. The cakes, tightly wrapped in their pans, can be refrigerated for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month.
7. If the oven is off, heat to 350 degrees. Line a 13-by-18-inch sheet pan with a sheet of parchment and coat with nonstick spray.
8. In a medium bowl, whisk egg whites, light brown sugar, vanilla and salt until glossy, about 3 minutes. Stir in sesame seeds. Pour batter onto prepared pan and smooth to the edges with a small offset spatula.
9. Bake for 6 minutes. Remove from oven and use a bench scraper or butter knife to chop. Bake for another 5 to 6 minutes, or until pieces no longer feel sticky.
10. Let sesame crunch cool completely in the pan; it will continue to crisp as it rests. If it still seems chewy after cooling, bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes. Finely chop into tiny clusters. The sesame crunch can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks, or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
11. Wash and scrub the oranges and lemons. Cut each in half crosswise. Heat a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-low and add fruit, cut sides down. They should sizzle upon contact. Let sear, undisturbed, for about 10 minutes, until the cut sides of the fruit are blackened in spots. Use tongs to carefully flip each piece and continue to cook for another 10 minutes, until the peel is softened and charred in spots.
12. Transfer citrus to a cutting board to cool. Add 8 cups water to the pot, scrape the bottom and bring water to a simmer.
13. Peel the fruit, and reserve citrus segments. (You should have about 2 cups segments.) Roughly chop peels.
14. Add chopped peels to the simmering water and simmer, stirring occasionally, until peels are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain peels in a colander, discarding the water.
15. Press citrus segments through a strainer into a small bowl to yield 1/2 cup juice. Set juice aside for the charred citrus soak (see Make the Citrus Soak).
16. Transfer spent pulp in the strainer to the pot, and add granulated sugar, cooked peels and 1 cup/240 grams water. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until mixture is thickened and saucy, 25 to 30 minutes. If mixture looks tight or dry, add 1/4 cup/60 grams water at a time and continue to cook until peels are tender.
17. Remove from heat and use an immersion blender or food processor and pulse until the mixture is smoothed out but retains a little texture. Stir in citric acid, if using. The compote should taste sweet and sour. Add more citric acid if desired. Let cool completely. The compote can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
18. Make the citrus soak: Combine 1/2 cup reserved charred citrus juice (see Step 5 of Prepare the Citrus Compote) with 1/2 cup/120 grams water, the fresh lemon juice and granulated sugar in a small saucepan. Gently warm over low heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar melts, about 5 minutes. Cool completely. The soak can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw before use.
19. Add egg whites and granulated sugar to a stand mixer bowl or other large heatproof bowl and set over a medium saucepan of steaming water set over low heat. (The water should not touch the bottom of the bowl.) Whisk continuously until mixture registers 155 degrees, about 10 minutes.
20. Remove the bowl from the pot and fit into the stand mixer with the whisk attachment. Whisk on medium-high speed until the mixture has cooled slightly, about 4 minutes. Add powdered sugar and mix on low speed to combine. Mix in vanilla and salt.
21. Check the temperature of the meringue with a clean fingertip: It should be room temperature. With the mixer on medium speed, add butter, piece by piece, until fully incorporated, then increase speed to medium-high and whisk until smooth and fluffy, another 3 to 5 minutes.
22. If the buttercream looks runny, refrigerate for 10 to 15 minutes to cool and then beat again until it is creamy and spreadable. With machine running, add sesame oil and mix to combine, then add tahini and whisk just until incorporated. Taste and add more salt if desired. The buttercream can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 1 month. If frozen, thaw overnight in the refrigerator, then bring to room temperature before use (this will take at least 2 hours and possibly more).
23. Line an 8-inch round cake form or pan (at least 3 inches deep) with plastic wrap, being sure to leave plenty of overhang. Repeat with a 10-inch round cake form or pan (also at least 3 inches deep). Peel off and discard parchment from cake layers.
24. Cut out the 8-inch cake rounds: Using the bottom of the 8-inch pan as a guide, trace and cut out an 8-inch circle with a small serrated knife on the upper left corner of one of the cake sheets. Trace and cut another 8-inch circle on the lower right corner of the sheet. Trace and cut a half-moon shape on the upper right corner of the sheet, and then the lower left corner. Lay those half-moons over a whole circle and cut out strips of cake from the scraps to complete the circle. You will have three 8-inch rounds total (including the two half-moons and their cake strips).
25. Build the 8-inch cake tier: Invert one cake round into the bottom of the plastic wrap-lined pan. Brush cake with 3 tablespoons citrus soak. Spoon 3/4 cup buttercream on top, and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula. Dollop 1/2 cup citrus compote on top of buttercream. Scatter about 3/4 cup sesame crunch on top.
26. Arrange the two half-moons and strips of cake on top to form the second 8-inch cake layer. Apply another 3 tablespoons citrus soak, then 3/4 cup buttercream, followed by another 1/2 cup citrus compote, plus another 3/4 cup sesame crunch. Place the remaining 8-inch cake round on top and brush on 3 tablespoons citrus soak. Wrap the cake pan securely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
27. Cut out the 10-inch cake rounds: Using the bottom of the 10-inch pan as a guide, trace and cut a 10-inch circle with a small serrated knife on the left side of one of the cake sheets. Trace and cut part of another 10-inch circle on the right side and a smaller crescent moon on one of the edges. Lay the partial pieces over the whole circle and cut cake scraps to fill in the gaps. Repeat with the third sheet of sponge; you will have four 10-inch rounds total.
28. Next, build the 10-inch cake tier: Invert one cake round in the bottom of the plastic wrap-lined pan. Brush cake with 1/4 cup citrus soak. Spoon 1 cup buttercream on top, and spread it evenly with a small offset spatula. Dollop 2/3 cup citrus compote on top. Scatter about 1 1/4 cups sesame crunch on top.
29. Place a cake layer with a missing edge on next and complete the round with its matching pieces. Apply another 1/4 cup citrus soak, then 1 cup buttercream, followed by another 2/3 cup compote, plus another 1 1/4 cups sesame crunch. Repeat this sequence with a third layer of cake and its matching pieces, then place the remaining whole 10-inch cake round on top, and brush on the remaining 1/4 cup citrus soak. Wrap the cake pan securely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. Both cake tiers can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or, preferably, frozen for up to 3 weeks.
30. Refrigerate the remaining buttercream until ready to apply. If the cakes have been frozen, they do not need to thaw. Completely frozen cakes are more stable and easier to handle and frost.
31. Let the reserved refrigerated buttercream sit at room temperature for an hour, then whisk with a stand mixer until fluffy and spreadable, about 3 minutes.
32. Invert the 8-inch cake onto an 8- to 8 1/2-inch cardboard cake round set on top of a baking sheet. Remove the cake form or pan, then peel off the plastic wrap. Dollop 2 cups buttercream on top and use an offset spatula to spread it all the way to the edges of the cake.
33. Dab 1 cup buttercream on the sides of the cake, smoothing each dab to touch the one before, until none of the cake is visible. Once the sides of the cake are roughly covered in buttercream, run the offset spatula along the top surface again to smooth it out. Run the offset again along the sides of the cake, where excess buttercream will have gathered, to pull away any excess frosting; the cardboard cake round should not be visible. Refrigerate the cake uncovered while you frost the second cake.
34. Invert the 10-inch cake onto an 11- to 12-inch cardboard cake round, large flat serving platter or decorative cutting board. Remove the cake form or pan, then peel off the plastic wrap. Dollop 2 cups buttercream on top and use an offset spatula to spread it all the way to the edges of the cake.
35. Dab 2 cups buttercream on the sides of the cake, smoothing each dab to touch the one before, until none of the cake is visible. Once the sides of the cake are roughly covered in buttercream, run the offset spatula along the top again to smooth it out. Run the offset again along the sides of the cake, where excess buttercream will have gathered, to pull away any excess frosting. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 1 hour before stacking the tiers. The tiers can be refrigerated separately for up to 2 days.
36. If the wedding is in another location, transport the separate tiers in deep cardboard boxes or crates to the venue. To assemble, simply place the 8-inch tier with its cardboard base on top of the 10-inch cake. Decorate the edges and sides of the cake with the fresh citrus and greenery. The cake can be displayed in a shaded, cool outdoor space or in a cool or air-conditioned indoor space for up to 5 hours. Do not let the assembled cake sit in direct sun for longer than an hour. The cake is not in danger of collapsing or shifting because the tiers are so wide, but the buttercream may melt in a warm setting.
37. Using a chef’s knife, cut the 8-inch cake into thirds by making two parallel slices, then cut crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces, wiping the knife clean between each new cut. Cut the 10-inch cake into quarters by making three parallel slices, then cut those pieces crosswise into 1-inch-thick pieces. The 8-inch cake yields about 24 small slices; the 10-inch cake about 36 slices.
Tip: Citric acid, which comes in powdered form, adds subtle tartness to rich buttercreams, jams, custards and more if added in moderation. Food-safe brands are available online, in specialty shops and some supermarkets.
Chocolate Whiskey Cake With Coffee Caramel
While traditional wedding cakes often combine bright, crowd-pleasing fruits like citrus and berries with richer flavors like vanilla and cream, a second cake (sometimes called a groom’s cake) is the couple’s chance to get weirder, boozier and more playful. Crucially, the cake can appear more rustic and simple, since it’s not in the same spotlight as a tiered centerpiece. Here, a tender cocoa cake is baked — and served — right out of its pan. Instead of thin, alternating layers of cake, buttercream and jam, this sheet cake is soaked with a whiskey and coffee-spiked milk, then topped with a glossy boiled caramel glaze and a final dusting of cocoa powder. No weddings on the horizon? This cake is great for anyone, anywhere, at any time.
By Natasha Pickowicz
Yield: One 9-by-13-inch sheet cake (24 servings)
Total time: 2 hours 35 minutes
Ingredients
For the Cake:
- Nonstick cooking spray
- 1 3/4 cups/240 grams all-purpose flour
- 1 cup/94 grams natural or Dutch-processed cocoa powder
- 2 teaspoons baking soda
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 2 large eggs, at room temperature
- 1 3/4 cups/434 grams whole milk, at room temperature
- 1 2/3 cups/335 grams granulated sugar
- 1/2 cup/111 grams olive or neutral-flavored oil
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
For the Whiskey Soak:
- 2/3 cup/160 grams whole milk
- 1/4 cup/54 grams whiskey
- 1 1/2 tablespoons instant coffee
- 3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
For the Coffee Caramel Glaze:
- 1 1/2 cups/325 grams light brown sugar
- 3/4 cup/180 grams heavy cream
- 2 tablespoons instant coffee
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1/2 cup/225 grams unsalted butter
To Decorate:
- 3 tablespoons natural or Dutch-processed cocoa powder
- Fresh, food-safe yellow and white flowers, like chamomile and chrysanthemum (optional)
Preparation
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly coat a 9-by-13-inch cake pan with nonstick cooking spray.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, baking soda, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, milk, granulated sugar, oil and vanilla to combine.
3. Using a fine-mesh strainer or sieve, sift the dry ingredients over the wet ingredients. (This prevents the cocoa from clumping.) Whisk to combine. The mixture will have small lumps, but do not continue whisking the batter to complete smoothness. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.
4. Bake until the center springs back to the touch, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before soaking. The cake, wrapped tightly, can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one week.
5. In a small bowl, whisk the milk, whiskey, instant coffee and vanilla until the coffee dissolves. The soak can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one week.
6. Prick the cooled cake all over with a small serrated knife. Pour the soak all over and let sit for the cake to absorb it, at least 5 minutes.
7. In a large saucepan, whisk the brown sugar, cream, instant coffee, vanilla and salt. Add the butter and bring to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil the caramel, whisking occasionally, until a candy thermometer registers 235 degrees (the soft ball stage), 5 to 10 minutes. The sauce will be a deep mahogany and smell toasty and rich, like graham crackers.
8. Remove from the heat, whisk to help the bubbles subside quickly and carefully pour the hot glaze over the soaked cake. Use a small offset spatula to smooth it and push it into the corners of the pan if needed.
9. Let the cake stand at room temperature until the icing firms up, at least 15 minutes and up to 4 hours. The cake, wrapped tightly, can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
10. When ready to serve, dust the cake with cocoa powder using a small tea strainer or other sieve. Dot the flowers all over the surface. Use a serrated bread knife to portion the cake into rectangles 1 1/2 inches wide and 3 inches long.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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