Herby orzo with a bright topping
Last Updated on August 3, 2023 by Admin
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By Emily Weinstein, The New York Times
If you only master two cooking fundamentals this summer, let it be these: cooking meat, fish, tofu and vegetables in utterly simple ways and making an easy sauce to go with them. Yewande Komolafe’s steak recipe brings both skills together in one dish, giving you instructions for grilling the meat and blending up a sauce of scallions, garlic, parsley and chiles. Likewise, Ali Slagle’s baked BBQ chicken comes down to properly roasting bone-in chicken leg quarters in a sticky-sweet blanket of barbecue sauce. Melissa Clark’s new orzo recipe leans on golden brown sautéed zucchini and pesto for instantaneous flavor.
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1. One-Pan Zucchini-Pesto Orzo
Keeping pesto on hand (store-bought or homemade and frozen) is one of the greatest kitchen time-savers, since stirring just a spoonful into a dish can add so much herby, garlicky flavor. Here, pesto builds on a pan of orzo loaded with zucchini and onions that have been sautéed together until golden brown. Cooking the orzo in vegetable or chicken stock bolsters the pasta’s flavor as the broth reduces into a silky sauce. Then, pesto is added at the very end to preserve its brightness. Finally, just before serving, a caprese-like mix of marinated mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and fresh mint is stirred into the pan. Filled with vegetables and milky cheese, this dish is especially satisfying and very easy to make.
By Melissa Clark
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 medium zucchini (about 6 ounces each), diced (about 2 1/2 cups)
- 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
- 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, to taste, more as needed
- 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt, more to taste
- 1 3/4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
- 1 cup orzo
- 1 lemon, zested and halved
- 1 cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes
- 5 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into cubes (1 cup)
- 1/2 cup grated Parmesan (3 ounces), more for serving
- 1/4 cup finely chopped mint, more for serving
- 1/2 cup pesto, store-bought or homemade, more to taste
Preparation
1. In a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, combine the zucchini and onion with olive oil, the red-pepper flakes and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook the mixture, stirring once or twice, until the zucchini and onion turn golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Don’t stir too often, as it can impede browning.
2. Stir in stock and bring to a simmer. Stir in orzo, lemon zest and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until orzo is nearly cooked through and most of the liquid is absorbed, 10 to 14 minutes, stirring once or twice.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss together the tomatoes, mozzarella, a pinch of salt, a pinch of red-pepper flakes and a drizzle of olive oil, and let marinate while the orzo cooks.
4. Once the orzo is ready, stir in juice of 1/2 lemon, Parmesan, mint and pesto. Cover the pan, and cook for 1 minute, to finish cooking. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice or pesto, if needed. To serve, top with tomato-mozzarella mixture and sprinkle with more cheese and mint.
2. Grilled Steak With Sauce Rof
A combination of onion, parsley, scallions and chile, this classic Senegalese sauce adds complexity to dishes. Typically used to stuff fish as a marinade and top it as a bold relish, it is also great for tempering the smoky char of grilled chicken or steak. In this recipe, some sauce rof is used as a marinade and served as a topping. Thinned with a dash of olive oil, the relish also gets lemon juice to add a lovely sparkle. Go for a nice marbled cut of meat — the fat intensifies the flavor of the grilled meat and the sauce rof cuts through the richness. This condiment can be made up to 24 hours in advance and refrigerated in an airtight jar.
By Yewande Komolafe
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients
- 1 1/2 pounds skirt steak or boneless short ribs (see tip)
- Coarse kosher salt (such as Morton) and black pepper
- 1 medium white or yellow onion, diced
- 1 serrano chile or jalapeno, stemmed
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 4 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
- 1 small bunch parsley, leaves and tender stems only (about 2 ounces)
- 1 lemon
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Preparation
1. Pat the steak dry and season lightly with salt.
2. Roughly chop the onion in a food processor by pulsing repeatedly. Add the serrano and garlic and pulse to combine. Add the scallions and parsley and pulse until chopped into a coarse paste. Transfer the paste to a large bowl and zest the lemon directly into it. Stir in 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. (Alternatively, finely chop the onion, serrano, garlic, scallions and parsley into a coarse paste by hand. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the lemon zest, oil, salt and pepper.)
3. Transfer about 3/4 cup of the paste to a small bowl. Place the meat in the large bowl and turn to coat. Marinate for at least 15 minutes at room temperature, or refrigerate, covered if needed, for up to 12 hours.
4. Combine the reserved marinade with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and squeeze in about 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and a pinch of black pepper, stir to combine and set aside.
5. Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high.
6. Scrape any excess marinade off the steak and discard. Grill the steak until the contact side is seared, 4 to 5 minutes. Flip and cook for an additional 3 minutes for medium-rare. Cook for an additional minute on each side for medium.
7. Transfer the steak to a board to rest for at least 5 minutes. Slice and transfer to a serving platter. Spoon the marinade dressing over the steak and serve immediately.
TIP: If your boneless short ribs are already in slices that are 1/2 inch thick or thinner, you can use them as is. If they’re thicker, lay several strips on a piece of plastic wrap, leaving about 1/2 inch between each slice and top with another piece of plastic wrap. Pound the meat with a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy bottle until the strips are flattened to about 1/2 inch thick.
3. Oven BBQ Chicken
Lacquered with barbecue sauce, this juicy chicken swaps constant flipping on the grill for a mostly hands-off process using the oven and one smart trick: The dry-rubbed chicken roasts most of the way on top of barbecue sauce. The resulting sauce becomes thickened and glossy from the chicken’s rendered fat. It’s then spooned onto the chicken and roasted until sticky, caramelized and rich with flavor. Serve the extra sauce with dinner, for dipping chicken, or spooning directly into your mouth. (For boneless barbecue chicken, try this stovetop method.)
By Ali Slagle
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients
- 1 (18-ounce) jar barbecue sauce, or 2 cups homemade barbecue sauce
- About 3 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken leg quarters or thighs, patted dry
- 1 tablespoon neutral oil (such as grapeseed)
- 2 teaspoons store-bought or homemade chili powder
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
- 1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Preparation
1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Pour the barbecue sauce into a 9-by-13-inch baking pan or dish, or a large skillet, or another ovenproof vessel that fits the chicken snugly, then shake so the sauce disperses into an even layer.
2. In a large bowl, toss the chicken with the oil, chili powder, paprika and 1 teaspoon salt until coated. Arrange the chicken, skin side up, on top of the barbecue sauce. Roast until the chicken skin is crisp, 30 to 35 minutes.
3. Scrape the sides of the pan and stir the barbecue sauce to incorporate the caramelized bits into the sauce. Turn the chicken to coat in the sauce, arrange skin-side-up, then spoon sauce on top of the chicken. Roast until the chicken is sticky and charred in spots, 10 to 15 minutes more.
4. Transfer chicken to plates. Stir the apple cider vinegar into the sauce remaining in the pan. Serve the chicken with the extra sauce.
4. Cashew Celery
This vegan cashew and celery stir-fry, which is adapted from “Tenderheart” by Hetty Lui McKinnon (Alfred A. Knopf, 2023), offers a lovely jumble of textures that form a dish that is uncomplicated but elegant. Celery is an ingredient that performs well in stir-fries, as it perfumes the entire dish and delivers a gratifying, crisp-tender crunch. You can use any leafy greens in this dish, but if they have thick stems (like gai lan), make sure you cut them in half lengthwise, which will help them cook quickly and evenly. Cashews add a creamy nuttiness, and tofu provides substance — but you could opt for shiitake mushrooms in its stead.
By Hetty Lui McKinnon
Yield: 4 servings
Total time: 20 minutes
Ingredients
- 2 teaspoons cornstarch
- 1/4 cup vegetable stock or water
- 2 1/2 tablespoons Shaoxing rice wine
- 4 teaspoons soy sauce or tamari
- Neutral oil
- 4 to 6 celery stalks (about 8 ounces), trimmed and sliced diagonally
- 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 3 scallions, trimmed and sliced
- 6 ounces dark, leafy greens (such as gai lan, choy sum, kale or spinach), halved lengthwise if they’ve got thick stems, then cut into 2-inch lengths
- 5 ounces five-spice-flavored or plain extra-firm tofu, cut into 1/2-inch-thick strips
- 1 cup roasted, unsalted cashews
- Kosher salt
- Toasted white sesame seeds, to serve
- Cooked white or brown rice, to serve
Preparation
1. Combine the cornstarch, stock, rice wine and soy sauce in a bowl and whisk until smooth; set aside.
2. Heat a wok or large skillet over medium-high. Once it’s hot, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of oil, along with the celery. Cook, tossing, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the celery is slightly softened; push it to the side. Add the ginger, garlic and three-quarters of the scallions, then toss for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the greens and toss for 1 to 2 minutes until slightly wilted. Toss in the tofu and cashews and stir fry for another 1 to 2 minutes, until the tofu is warmed through.
3. Stir the cornstarch mixture, then swirl it into the wok or skillet and toss until the sauce thickens and coats everything. Taste and season with a little salt, if needed.
4. Top with the remaining scallions and the sesame seeds; serve with rice.
5. Furikake Tomato Sandwich
In this variation on the classic Southern sandwich, a sprinkle of furikake, the savory-sweet Japanese rice seasoning that makes food sing, enhances the flavor of glutamate-rich summer tomatoes. The furikake’s seaweed, as well as its monosodium glutamate, lends you that extra burst of umami (the fifth taste after sweet, sour, salty and bitter), helping the tomatoes taste even more of themselves. Here, soft, just-toasted slices of brioche or milk bread should sandwich thick sheets of your favorite mayonnaise, completing the harmony of fruit, carb and condiment.
By Eric Kim
Yield: 2 sandwiches
Total time: 10 minutes
Ingredients
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1 large very ripe heirloom tomato, thickly sliced crosswise
- 4 slices soft white sandwich bread, such as brioche or milk bread
- Mayonnaise, for spreading
- Furikake rice seasoning (see tip), for sprinkling
Preparation
1. Salt and pepper the tomato slices. Lightly toast the bread.
2. Spread a generous amount of mayonnaise on each slice of bread, then sprinkle with furikake. Divide the tomato slices between 2 slices of bread, then sandwich with the remaining bread.
3. Cut the sandwiches diagonally and eat immediately.
TIP: You can find furikake, in all its flavor iterations, in most Asian supermarkets and online. In a pinch, you can also pulse in a mini food processor 1 (5-gram) packet roasted seaweed, 1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon sugar until fine, then stir in 2 teaspoons sesame seeds or everything bagel seasoning, and a pinch of MSG, such as Aji-No-Moto brand seasoning. Beyond the tomato sandwich, you can sprinkle this homemade seasoning over a bowl of fresh white rice, roasted vegetables and all manner of eggs.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.
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