Guess unveils Airwash, and mounts The Next 40 Years of Denim

Guess Jeans returned to Pitti this season with the launch of its new Airwash concept and the unveiling of a giant immersive display The Next 40 Years of Denim.
 

Back in the early 80s, Guess essentially invented the idea of stone washing denim and acid-dyed jeans, and the family-owned business went on to become the most successful French-owned fashion marque in the United States.
 
But, given the shocking use of water and environmental damages involved in stone washing, the brand has pivoted to a new technology they dubber Airwash, presented by Nicolai Marciano, son of Paul, one of four French brothers who founded the brand in a disused 30-meter-square fish shop in the southern port of Bandol in 1973.

Besides an installation in the main grounds of Fortezza Da Basso the heart of Pitti, Guess built a major off-site exhibition inside Florence’s newest theatre, Teatro Del Maggio.
 
Back in 1993, Guess Europe began in Florence, with the first European store opening in the Renaissance city. Three decades later, the brand’s immersive exploration is a rolling exhibition that includes historic stone washing barrels, that look almost Victorian now; the original three-zip Marilyn jeans that first sold in Bloomingdales back in 1981; and the paneled denim jacket Michael J. Fox wore in Back to the Future in 1985.
 
“We wanted to celebrate the DNA of our company – California lifestyle, denim and product innovation. We redefined the denim industry 42 years ago popularizing stone washed jeans to the world. Fast forward four decades and we are making a big statement again with denim with our new wash process,” argued Nicolai, in a tour of the exhibition.
 
Standing inside the “Stone to Air” pop-up installation that features revolutionary Guess AirwashTM technology, for which the brand has an exclusive license.
 
Its key innovation is Airwash, which Guess boasts uses zero stones and no toxic chemicals, reduces water use by 80%, and conserves energy. In effect, this new technology replaces the use of pumice stones with light and air.
 

Presented in giant racks, the resulting new jeans had a great smooth finish. They could also be inscribed for visiting retailers and editors using the Jeanologia laser system.
 
Alongside were Guess’ iconic ad campaigns of lusty beauties: Victoria Mazza shot by Dewey Nicks; Claudia Schiffer by Ellen Von Unwerth; Anna Nicole Smith lensed by Daniela Federici.
 
However, that vision of women now seems a tad out of step in our era of female empowerment, so expect a careful switch in direction when Guess launches the new Airwash jeans in June. Hinted at by huge panels showing images of Californian lifestyle from the 90s. 
 
“We are planning a new cast and a new chapter of imagery for the company, while respecting our DNA,” underlined Nicolai, who started working at Guess at 17, even before he had finished high school. 
 
Like a lot of brands, Guess was badly buffeted by the pandemic after already shuttering scores of stores as the internet ate into its physical retail business.
 
The brand is well of its it historic high level of 2,236 stores in 2014 but is planning to roll out a new series of denim-focused new boutiques. And overall business remains healthy. Guess still scored a four-percent rise in annual sales in the year ending October 28, 2023, to $2.70 billion.