Valentino couture: Calabasas clans in couture

Hollywood pandemonium at Valentino, with hundreds of fans craning and jumping over barriers the better to catch a glimpse of three generations of Jenners ascend to the house’s couture show.

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Chris Jenner (formerly Kardashian), and her daughter Kylie and her granddaughter Stormy all marching up the stairs to the show inside Valentino’s Paris headquarters, the most elegant salon in couture, located in Place Vendome. Joining the likes of Jennifer Lopez – with talent manager Benny Medina beside her – and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley.
 
Pre-show, young Stormy playing with feather boas and scarves with Signor Valentino’s long-time partner Giancarlo Giammetti. Even if there was little interaction between JLo and the Kardashian clans, Calabasas and the Bronx like oil on water.

Yet, all gathered to witness a striking fashion display dreamed up by couturier Pierpaolo Piccioli, a reminder that he is unquestionably the greatest colorist in contemporary couture.
 
The key to the collection was Pierpaolo’s inventive project of suggesting clothes referencing elements of fine jewelry, exotic skins or furs but made by twisting, coloring and scrunching fine organza, mesh silk and felt or metallic wools.

It was a technical tour de force, where artisans broke genuinely new ground, before an audience of Parisian and Milanese editors who understand couture like experts. And not like fans, as their Anglo-Saxons colleagues do.

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A défilé serenaded by an emotional soundtrack, centered on Maria Callas singing ‘Un Bel dì Vedremo’ from ‘Madame Butterfly’, as the cast toured the two floors of the HQ.
 
For this spring, Pierpaolo wants his gals in big clothes for big statements in big colors. Peacock green cabans; kissing pink flared pants; raspberry crepe overalls or encrusted metallic strawberry beaded dusters. Remarkably, because Piccioli is a master colorist, it all came together with a certain punchy poise.
 
His finale was impressively racy – with super suggestive see-through gazar tops or purlin cady tops – undies and knickers apparent in every look.
 
And though couture is made for the 1% of the 1%, the house sportingly listed each seamstresses and artisan who made each look. Respect for the Roman atelier of Valentino, with honorable mentions to the Paris house of Hurel, whose staff embroidered on 50,000 pampille crystals on one dress. 
 
Little wonder that Pierpaolo entitled the collection ‘Valentino Le Salon’. Giving credit where credit is due. Hats off to the man.